I know that these babies run a bit on the warm side, but even with the heater off, should it always be so warm inside the cabin? I put a 160 thermostat in, but I am wondering if the heater cable could be out of adjustment....and if it is...how tough a job is it to re adjust? Also on the outside chance, could it be due to a clogged radiator? If that is the case...would a 2 row sufice, or should I go to a 3 row?
Submitted by: Alan Pyatt
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I have a '70 convertible (non a/c) I replaced the heater core this year and found that temp. control is just a door on passenger side of the core. The kit included new foam that is pre glued to adhere to this door. After replacing the foam it was like a different car, temp control set to "C" very little heat bleeds through. " Corvettes the 65 mph sauna"
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Thomas Parker on
9/10/2017 5:36:53 PM
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A 'lower' temp thermostat doesn't make the car run cooler, it just allows warm water from the block to circulate sooner. The operating temp of the engine is gonna max out anyway, whether the stat opens at 160, 180, 200... My experience (99 vert) with a warm interior is due to the exhaust system being routed the way it is. Member may need to verify the insulation around the exhaust is in place and in good condition
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Anonymous on
11/4/2010 8:35:08 AM
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Well I may have missed the year!
But you could have a mode door that's out of adjustment, a water control valve if so equipped could be open, or you may be getting heat from the floor, if the latter is the case, they do make insulated pads that go under the carpeting. But I made some panels that went under my 78 Vette and that was the ticket.....took me a little while to do it.....but it sure made a difference during the Dream Cruise....
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Anonymous on
11/4/2010 8:34:38 AM
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I have a 1972 coupe.The cars do run a bit warm. Interior heat can come up into the cabin from the exhaust that runs under the chassis. That's why they have the insulation that goes over the tranny, to block some of the radiant heat. You may want to check that insulation and make sure it's in good shape. Some people pull the carpet and put insulation underneath.
As far as a 160 thermostat goes, that probably won't help. Thermostats only regulate MINIMUM temp, not max. I'd go back to the recommended temp (whether 180 or 195) and do a flow check on the radiator to make sure circulation is good. Also the cowling around the radiator and fan is important as it directs the air thru the radiator without losing any. I've also found an additive like "water wetter" can help in lowering the coolant temp. some.
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Anonymous on
11/4/2010 8:30:26 AM
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Hello Alan,
You did not say what year your Corvette was. Mine is a 65 327/350 Convertible with factory air. I spent several years chasing an overheating problem and hope I can help. When my problem began, the first thought was the radiator, so I had a special 4 row custom built by LA Radiator. Still had the problem. Recurved the distributor, still had the problem. Replaced the fan clutch, checked the timing for over advance, still had the problem. What solved the problem was this. A new aluminum radiator from DeWitts. Copper/brass units, no matter how many rows they have, just do not work. Do not dissipate the heat. At the same time, I replaced the expansion tank with a properly dated piece. If there is a pressure leak at the tank, the cooling system will not work properly. I also replaced the heater core because it was leaking. I run with a 180 degree thermostat and the car runs fine. Recovers quickly if it gets warm in traffic. Remember though, that the interior will still get warm even when the car is running normal. Check or replace the AC/Heater shut off valve. It's a very cheap part and easy to replace.
Hope this helps,
Jeff Menkes
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Jeff Menkes on
10/14/2010 9:07:57 AM
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